We Took Our 5-year-old Son on a European River Cruise — Here's Why It Was the Ultimate Family Vacation (2024)

"Keep up, mummy," bellowed Sebastian, my fearless 5-year-old, as he and my husband, Eamonn, descended into Antwerp Cathedral's eerie crypt. This subterranean vault, accessed via a narrow coiling staircase off the church nave, is a small room with a low ceiling and crumbling hollow tombs. A shiver crept up my spine as I stood among the remains of this former burial chamber. This was my cue to return to the ground floor of Antwerp's extraordinary Gothic cathedral.

While Sebastian and Eamonn explored the dimly lit crypt, I took the opportunity to gaze at the church's three Baroque masterpieces by Flemish artist Peter Paul Rubens, before we reconvened at the cathedral's bar and bistro, De Plek, moments later. The bar, inside a chapel of the cathedral, serves the church’s own brews, including a dark and blond ale. Only in beer-loving Belgium, I thought to myself, would you find beers served inside a church.

We were visiting Antwerp on day six of a seven-night family river cruise on the Rhine aboard A-Rosa Cruises' A-Rosa Sena. Starting in Cologne, Germany, our voyage would take us northwest to Amsterdam, Rotterdam, and Dordrecht in the Netherlands, then to Antwerp before returning to Cologne.

River cruising and families don't — typically — go together, with most river cruise lines catering to a much older market and offering few family facilities, if any at all. German river cruise line A-Rosa Cruises has set about changing this with the launch of the family-orientated A-Rosa Sena, which debuted in June 2022.

The hybrid ship, partially electric-powered, is the largest on the Rhine, carrying up to 280 guests, and the vessel also boasts some nifty industry firsts. There's a jaunty kids' club; 12 large family cabins measuring 301 square feet, sleeping up to five with built-in bunkbeds; and a dedicated kids' splash pool on the top deck.

The main pool, adjacent to the splash pool, is almost 250 square feet, making it big enough to swim short laps. For grown-ups, there's a spa, a buzzy lounge, a sun deck bar, and a wine room for tasting local libations.

It's all part of A-Rosa's mission to draw more families to river cruising — and it's working, says Serkan Bilici, A-Rosa Sena's assistant hotel manager. "We currently have 32 children onboard, and all of our family cabins are occupied," Bilici told Travel + Leisure. "During summer, this was even higher, with over 40 children sailing, from babies up to teens, and guests from over 20 different countries."

"We also offered swimming lessons aboard selected sailings in August, which were very popular,"Serkan adds. Indeed, there were babies, toddlers, older children, and teens on our weeklong October sailing.

The ship, which primarily operates in English and German, ensures that children are well taken care of. Typically, there are two hosts at the kids' club, and on our sailing, host Mai organized a "Meet the Captain" event, treasure hunts, and arts and crafts sessions. The children were given independence too, free to choose exactly how they spend their time at the club, with games, books, and plenty of space for young passengers to relax.

The kids' club is a real treat for families. Decorated with nautical-themed artwork, the space is soft and inviting, with children reading, coloring, and building dens while we played countless rounds of Snakes and Ladders with Sebastian.

It wasn't the family facilities alone that lured us in, though — our voyage, "Rhine Experience Amsterdam & Rotterdam," was a big pull.

Admittedly, this northwest section of the Rhine, flat and more industrial, doesn't have the cinematic drama of the more southerly stretch, where vineyards, castles, and medieval towns flank the waterway. But with overnight stays in ludicrously pretty Amsterdam and modern and buzzy Rotterdam, our itinerary excited us.

We explored Cologne's ravishing twin-spire cathedral on a gloriously crisp fall day. Later, we roamed Rotterdam’s famous Piet Blom-designed cube houses and the city's excellent Maritime Museum, where the entire rooftop is dedicated to children.

Lesser-known Dordrecht, one of the oldest cities in the Netherlands, felt like wandering a real-life fairytale. Compact and walkable, its cobbled streets are jam-packed with wonky, characterful merchant houses, antique stores, artisan workshops, and quaint cafes.

We split our day here between exploring the town's enchanting streets and De Biesbosch National Park on the edge of Dordrecht. If it hadn't been lashing down with rain, we would have cycled from Dordrecht's center to the reserve, which takes around 40 minutes. Instead, we made the breezy 10-minute journey via the local Waterbus service.

We'd just heard of De Biesbosch a few weeks earlier, yet it's among Europe's largest freshwater tidal zones, home to some 300 dam-building beavers. Made up of around 22,000 acres of streams, rivers, willow forests, marshes, and meadows, it was a welcome discovery.

As well as beavers, the reserve is rich in birdlife, including osprey, sea eagles, kingfishers, and kestrels. Canoes and boats can be hired and are the best way to explore this vast network of swampy paths and islands.

A-Rosa offers some excursions geared towards families, such as a trip to Antwerp Zoo or Madurodam, a miniature park in the Netherlands. We opted to do our own thing at each destination, carefully balancing time onboard with time in each river port.

"But I don’t want to leave the boat," Sebastian would grumble each morning we left the ship. However, his reluctance was soon forgotten as we explored family-friendly museums and thrilling nature reserves, and he was treated to a warm waffle with lashings of chocolate in Antwerp.

Early on in our voyage, after a less than harmonious night's sleep that saw Sebastian climb into our king-size bed at 2 a.m., I almost wept with gratitude when I remembered the kids' club had programming start right after breakfast. So, while Sebastian happily played, we caught a blissful extra hour of rest before heading to the NEMO Science Museum in Amsterdam, a big hit with families thanks to its five floors demystifying sciences.

Our penultimate day aboard saw us spend a whole day sailing. It was our chance to carve out time to relax. My husband joined a salmon-curing class while I visited the sauna, where I was instantly reminded that A-Rosa is a German tour operator — with mostly German passengers — meaning bathing suits are optional and rarely worn. I also indulged in a Thalgo facial, where Jelena, a former spa manager with Cunard and Celebrity Cruises, gave my dull-looking skin a blissful facial massage.

We accompanied Sebastian to a pizza-making class with some of the other kids led by the chef in the ship's pastry galley. His jaw dropped as he experienced a real-life Willy Wonka moment; only the chocolate-filled conveyor belts were replaced with vats of colorful churning ice cream.

As he ate his chaotic-looking pizza with his newfound friends, Eamonn and I pondered whether to choose a sliver of dressed salmon, pork goulash, or both for dinner. Another mealtime highlight was osso buco, a divine sauce-laden veal shank.

Veal was a reoccurring theme, with juicy, seared cuts of the meat served one evening and meatballs another. A nightly children's buffet also featured popular dishes such as spaghetti bolognese and macaroni and cheese. A highlight for Sebastian: the three homemade ice creams set out each evening, complete with various toppings. In addition to the main buffet restaurant, A-Rosa Sena has a specialty steak restaurant where passengers can dine on salmon sashimi and beef entrecôte for an additional fee.

One evening, we dined off the ship in Amsterdam and ate supper at a cozy bistro on a corner of Prinsengracht. Dining on bowls of lightly curried mussels at a sun-dappled canal-side table, we imagined milestones and romantic dinners were celebrated over the restaurant's intimate candlelit tables inside.

In the end, it wasn't just the sights that made the trip memorable, but the serene pace of the river that allowed us to truly savor each moment with our son.